Here's a tip. If you have the truck ten years, and the wells start to rust a lot and you sand and repaint the edges with some rustoleum or something THEN add the flares to cover it up. Otherwise, they're a waste on brand new vehicles.
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Ditto!Wow.
You helped me decide not to get them.
Thank You.
Have a safe 4th.
GB
Maybe this is why the Air Design flares come with a tube of adhesive?Yeah. Flares need to be well sealed to be worth it. Otherwise, as you show, it defeats the purpose. Why worry about rock chips when you're accelerating the rusting potential of your wheel wells.
That sticky tape used needs to cover the entire fender where it's covered AND then some type of silicone/sealant filling that void. There's no other way to get them to sit perfectly tight. Fine dust/salt will get in, especially via water.
The Air Design instruction says to only apply it to the built in channel under where the tape is. Debris can still get under the flares similar to these that way. Best to just apply it all around the perimeter.Maybe this is why the Air Design flares come with a tube of adhesive?
HRG
If the mud flaps molds around the fenders and covers some paint, definitely. The Mabbet mudflaps I have on do not cover any painted surfaces so those are staying on.Thanks OP. The salt up here in PA would do a number under those flares. I wonder if the mudflaps are in the same boat...
My other concern with the Mabett fender flares, is fading. A sore spot for GM was the Chevy Avalanche's fading plastics.Thanks OP. The salt up here in PA would do a number under those flares. I wonder if the mudflaps are in the same boat...
This is something to consider. It's goes up the side if the fenders and under them to reduce the edge rock chip.Wow.
You helped me decide not to get them.
Thank You.
Have a safe 4th.
GB
Good idea.This is something to consider. It's goes up the side if the fenders and under them to reduce the edge rock chip.
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Heh... Groucho style.Might be able to get away with some vinyl decals.